Days 2 & 3 were truly spectacular days, with frequent changes in terrain and weather conditions. The days are all beginning with thick coastal fog, which burns off by the afternoon.
We began day 2 riding through the outskirts of Santa Cruz, a congested area that lasted for the first hour or so, and then suddenly we were on country roads traveling through vast, fragrant fields of ripe strawberries, where migrant workers were busy picking the crop. Between these fields and Castroville, the artichoke capital of the world, I saw a group of sea otters in the Moss Landing inlet. Then, after passing a large Dole cannery near Marina, we traveled on bike paths through Monterey to reach Carmel - again heavily congested areas full of people, cars, and upscale shops. This middle part of the day was a bit of an endurance test for me, but the day ended spectacularly once we escaped Carmel and headed toward Big Sur, as the fog finally lifted and the day grew warm and sunny. The hilly coastline was challenging, but the scenery was worth it, and we spent the night tenting in a forest of redwoods alongside the Big Sur river. It was a hard day - 80 miles, with a lot of climbing toward the end - but very, very memorable.
Day 3 was a much hiller 74 miles, but it felt easier thanks to the simpler directions - Route 1 south all the way - the incredible coastal scenery, great views of wildlife, and a powerful tailwind that pushed us along for the final 20 miles. We began by climbing in extremely thick fog, and at the top, with near-zero visibility, hearing the echoing barks of sea lions in a cove far beneath us. The fog eased in an hour or so, providing shrouded views of the cliffs and the ocean, and it kept improving all day, with the sun again coming out for good in the late afternoon. All the climbing was challenging but enjoyable in the cool temperature (60s all day), and then the real treat was the end, as the land flattened and the road, running right along the shoreline, offered views of seals, sea lions, and especially elephant seals basking in the afternoon sunshine. Tonight we're in Cambria, a few miles south of San Simeon and the castle built by William Randolph Hearst, which I could see in the distance but didn't bother visiting, more interested in nature's ostentatiousness than that of a robber baron.
i like......
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