More Pix from Days 2 & 3

Coastline north of Big Sur.

More Big Sur coastline ...

Redwoods in Big Sur (campground day 2).

Riding in morning fog just south of Big Sur.

Coasline south of Big Sur (the fog slowly clearing).

More Pix from Days 2 & 3

Carol, Steve, and Alice on the Big Dipper rollercoaster (circa 1924) on the Santa Cruz boardwalk.

Migrant workers picking strawberries between Aptos and Moss Landing (the greater Salinas Valley area).

Roadside market sign near Castroville (artichoke capital of the world).


Lettuce field near Castroville.

Greetings from Cambria, CA

Days 2 & 3 were truly spectacular days, with frequent changes in terrain and weather conditions. The days are all beginning with thick coastal fog, which burns off by the afternoon.

We began day 2 riding through the outskirts of Santa Cruz, a congested area that lasted for the first hour or so, and then suddenly we were on country roads traveling through vast, fragrant fields of ripe strawberries, where migrant workers were busy picking the crop. Between these fields and Castroville, the artichoke capital of the world, I saw a group of sea otters in the Moss Landing inlet. Then, after passing a large Dole cannery near Marina, we traveled on bike paths through Monterey to reach Carmel - again heavily congested areas full of people, cars, and upscale shops. This middle part of the day was a bit of an endurance test for me, but the day ended spectacularly once we escaped Carmel and headed toward Big Sur, as the fog finally lifted and the day grew warm and sunny. The hilly coastline was challenging, but the scenery was worth it, and we spent the night tenting in a forest of redwoods alongside the Big Sur river. It was a hard day - 80 miles, with a lot of climbing toward the end - but very, very memorable.

Day 3 was a much hiller 74 miles, but it felt easier thanks to the simpler directions - Route 1 south all the way - the incredible coastal scenery, great views of wildlife, and a powerful tailwind that pushed us along for the final 20 miles. We began by climbing in extremely thick fog, and at the top, with near-zero visibility, hearing the echoing barks of sea lions in a cove far beneath us. The fog eased in an hour or so, providing shrouded views of the cliffs and the ocean, and it kept improving all day, with the sun again coming out for good in the late afternoon. All the climbing was challenging but enjoyable in the cool temperature (60s all day), and then the real treat was the end, as the land flattened and the road, running right along the shoreline, offered views of seals, sea lions, and especially elephant seals basking in the afternoon sunshine. Tonight we're in Cambria, a few miles south of San Simeon and the castle built by William Randolph Hearst, which I could see in the distance but didn't bother visiting, more interested in nature's ostentatiousness than that of a robber baron.

Greetings from Santa Cruz, CA

Day One of the Big Rube is in the books.


Our ride from San Francisco to the Mexico border is called the Big Rube in honor of the ride's director and host, Steve Rubenstein, a reporter for the San Francisco Chronicle. The group consists of seven people, all of whom rode together on the 2006 Big Ride Across America, and all of whom were sleeping at Steve's house last night. Team Rubenstein consists of Steve, Eric Knudson, Dave Frankel, Carol Tremble, Alice Nelson, Maria Nardella, and yours truly, along with two other friends of Steve's, Louis and Lenny, who are with us for the first three days. Eric was the mastermind behind the Big Rube jerseys we're all wearing. Steve was presented with the jersey before dinner last night and then woke to find the rest of us all wearing them.

[Photos: Steve checks out his jersey (right) and Team Rubenstein (below) prepares to depart.]

Team Rubenstein on day 1 south of Half Moon Bay.









The ride today from Steve's house to the Hampton Inn in Santa Cruz seemed intimidating on paper - 75 miles - but I had an easy time of it, being the first volunteer to drive the Steve's van, which we have as our support and gear (SAG) vehicle. I drove behind the group on the mostly downhill ride beyond the city limits, warm and dry while the others rode in a dense, cool, wet fog. By the time I started riding, around 10:00 a.m. in Half Moon Bay, having missed the first 25 miles, including the day's toughest (steepest, shoulderless, pitted, and slick) climb and descent, just south of Pacifica, the fog was dissipating; and the road had a good surface and shoulder the rest of the way. By noon it was mostly cloudless blue sky, and a stiff tailwind sped us along. Thus I rode 50 dry, wind-aided miles, and given that I didn't train much, I'm not sorry for what I missed.

The day stayed cool throughout, and coastal scenery was wonderful. Wildlife sightings included sea lions, elephant seals, crowds of pelicants and cormorants, and a gang of turkey vultures. All told, then, a great day of riding, and I feel over my usual first day jitters.

The California coast near Davenport after the morning fog dispersed.

Summer 2008 Itinerary

I'll fly from New York to San Francisco on Friday, July 25.

Part 1: The first leg of my trip is a 10-day supported ride down the California Coast from San Francisco to the Mexico border with a group of eight or so people, most of whom are friends from the Big Ride Across America in 2006. The trip has been designed and organized by Steve Rubenstein, a columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, and will include overnight stops in Santa Cruz, Big Sur, Cambria, Pismo Beach, Lompoc, Carpenteria, Los Angeles, San Clemente, and Coronado, ending August 5.

Part 2: After a lift back to San Francisco, I'll ride for 4+ weeks solo, self-contained through Northern California, Oregon, Washington, and perhaps British Columbia before arriving in Seattle approximately September 8. The route will be very flexible, as I have more time than I need to reach Seattle, but I'll avoid the coast (see part 3) and focus on riding in the Cascades and the high desert east of the mountains.

Part 3: After a few days off in Seattle, I'll be participating in the American Lung Association's Big Ride Pacific Coast, which runs for 2 weeks, September 13-27, from Seattle to San Francisco. The ride is supported and will include up to 40 participants, each of whom will have raised at least $2500 for the charity.

I'll fly home from San Francisco on Sunday, September 28.